Sunday, November 11, 2012

Feed Lifting Rock Shaft (FLRS) Reassembly

Hello everyone.  I sincerely apologize for my overly extended absence.  I could go into the details as to why, but that would be boring.  Instead we’ll just jump right into the reassembly of Ms. Rusty!

We left off last time installing the Connecting Rods.  The next step I tackled was the Feed Lifting Rock Shaft, or FLRS as I affectionately call it.  The next two photos show all the pieces/parts needed to install the FLRS.

All the individual parts  100_1309

Parts laid out in approximately correct location when assembled. It took me a bit to figure this out as I’ve been away from Ms. Rusty for so long!100_1310

The first step is putting one half of the feed dog raising mechanism on the left end of the shaft as shown below – be sure to put it on facing the right way (screw toward the inside of the machine)100_1311

The mechanism at the right end of the FRLS (Feed Lifting Rock Shaft) is used to raise or lower the feed dogs.  The pictures below show the position of the second half (front/left half) )when the feed dogs are raised and lowered.  Honestly, I’m not sure which one is represents raised or lowered.  I could make an educated guess, but I’m sure I’ll figure it out after the feed dogs are installed.  The screws will also have to be adjusted a bit after the feed dogs are in to make sure they are at the correct height for sewing.

View from left  100_1315100_1318

View from right 100_1317100_1319

At this point the rod is ready to put into the base of the machine. Lay the machine on its side with the bottom facing you and the balance wheel end to the right.  The FLRS attaches to the top legs in the base. Put the two “pointy” screws partially into the legs on the machine base on both the right and left side.  The photo below shows a “pointy” screw in the right leg of the base.


Place the FLRS bar between the screws and tighten a bit.  You don’t want the bar too tight, just enough to hold it, as you need some room so you can attach it to the connecting rod. Attach the end of the feed connecting rod (installed here) to the FLRS via the taper hole.  The connecting rod should be towards the balance wheel and the nut towards the bobbin area (see photo below).  100_1322

Tighten or adjust the end nuts and taper nuts as needed so when the balance wheel is turned by hand the connecting rod doesn’t bind or drag, nor have too much play.  It isn’t too hard to do this.  It’s pretty obvious that you need to move/adjust the FLRS one way or the other if you can’t even get the connecting rod to butt up against the taper hole.  This is what happened to me on my first try.  Once I had things lined up right, everything just slid into place.  After that, only minor adjustments were needed to make it rotate smoothly.  It seemed to me that if it didn’t feel/look right, it probably wasn’t right. 

Here is a photo of the bottom side of Ms. Rusty with the FLRS fully installed.


Saturday, July 14, 2012

Connecting Rods Assembly–Part 2

Welcome to Part 2 of the Connecting Rod Saga.  Fortunately, installation of the second connecting rod was much easier than the first one.  The photo below shows the connecting rod with the end cap connected and the screws attached. 


The end cap must be removed to put it onto the horizontal arm shaft.  At the top of the cap is an oil wick, which in Ms. Rusty’s case was all dried up and looked like a piece of lint stuck in the top hole.  I applied quite a bit of sewing machine oil to the wick to moisten it and “fluff” it up.  The photo below shows the cap as viewed from above so you can see the oil wick.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Connecting Rods Reassembly–Part 1

First of all, let me apologize for the long delay between posts.  Between work, making 3 baby quilts, and a much needed vacation, I haven’t had much time for blogging.  The next month should be a little better so I’m going to try to post at least once every week for the next 4 weeks.  Now, back to Ms. Rusty.

The Singer 201 has two connecting rods –  one with an end cap and one that is forked.  This post will cover the forked connecting rod and the next post will cover the other rod. 

Below is a photo of the parts used to reassemble the forked connecting rod.  The rod itself (top), the feed regulator (bottom), the slide block (small rectangle), the hinge screw and the hinge screw washer. 


Friday, June 8, 2012

Upright Arm Shaft Reassembly

Today’s adventure was pretty straight forward for a change.  I decided to install the upright arm shaft, which is the shaft with gears that connects the lower gear shaft with the upper gear shaft.  A picture is below and a link to the disassembly of this baby is here.


The upper gear is the smaller one, and that is the one that I took off to insert into the arm of the machine.  The photo below shows the “flat” of the shaft where one of the set screws of the gear should rest against when it is reassembled.


If I haven’t mentioned it before, I’m lightly oiling all the parts with regular sewing machine oil before assembly.  This helps the parts slide together easier and adds a little protection from rust.

Here are photos of the bottom of Ms. Rusty and they show the “before” and “after” shots.  It’s easier to show pictures than try to describe where to insert the shaft.

100_1286  100_1287

Now here is a photo of the top end of the shaft, as seen through the arm side cover opening.



What this photo is intended to show is that it is not possible to attach the top gear to the shaft without first moving the gear on the horizontal arm shaft out of the way.  That is why I didn’t worry too much about exact placement when this gear was initially installed.  After the horizontal gear is pushed back a bit, then the upright gear can be put on.  This can be a bit awkward for one person to do since you have to push up on the shaft while aligning the gear over the hole, and then tightening the screw.  To solve this problem, I propped up the shaft at the bottom with a small box of toothpicks and then it went pretty smoothly.  An alternative would be to have a helper or a third hand, but I had neither at the time SmileYou can tell the gear is in proper position on the shaft when, using the words of the Singer Adjuster Manual, the end of the the shaft is approximately flush with the face of the gear.

The next step is to bring the gear of the horizontal arm shaft and put it in mesh with the gear of the upper arm shaft.  It helps to have a pair of bent nose pliers for this step to pull and hold the horizontal gear into place to tighten the set screws.  The photo below shows the completed assembly.


Then I rotated the shafts at the balance wheel hub to make sure everything was turning smoothly and nothing was binding.  The adjusters manual warns that the gears should not be pressed too tightly against the bushings as this could “retard the free rotation of the upright arm shaft”.

When I was sure everything was working the way it should be (at least as far as I could tell), I applied grease to the gears and did a few more rotations to work the grease into the gears.  I want to make sure those babies are ready for the big show when the time comes!

Next time I’ll tackle the connecting rods.  Oooooo – what fun!

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Reassembly of Thread Take-up Lever

Today’s post cover’s the reinstallation of the Thread Take-up Lever Assembly and the Needle Bar Link.  These parts attach to the end of the horizontal arm shaft that we installed in the previous post.  Fortunately, these are pretty easy to put back on.
The thread take up lever goes on first.  A key land mark on this piece is the flat edge on the post for the set screw.

Saturday, May 19, 2012

HAS Reassembly

The Horizontal Arm Shaft, or HAS as I like to call it, is the next part I put into Ms. Rusty. Ms. Rusty’s driveshaft has 5 pieces. There is a 6th piece, which is a bushing near the needle bar area, but I couldn’t manage to remove that during the disassembly process so it is still in it’s original place.
The 5 parts that were removed are shown in the next photo. The long bar at the bottom is the HAS and the four part at the top, from left to right are the stop motion flanged bushing, the feed cam & feed lifting eccentric, the bevel gear, and finally the needle bar crank.

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Upper Bushing and Needle Bar Post Reassembly

Today I will show you how I returned the upper bushing for upright gear shaft and the needle bar post to their proper locations.  These were the last two mechanical parts to be removed from Ms. Rusty before she was cleaned and stripped many moons ago (click here for a flashback).
I started with the upper bushing for the upright gear shaft.  Notice that there is a mark at the top of the bushing that “points” toward the hole in the side of the bushing?  This hole will face toward the back of the machine when it is properly placed into position.  Also note the slightly flat side of the top of the bushing?  This will face the side where the set screw holds the bushing in place.

Sunday, May 6, 2012

A little teaser

I started reassembling Ms. Rusty today, but didn’t have time to put together a decent post.  So I thought I just give you a little teaser by showing you a picture of all her parts laid out on my kitchen table.


Each of those little bags is worth at least one good post.  So that means you can count on 17+ more blog posts before Ms. Rusty is even close to being complete. 

I’ll try my best to get the next post up before Mother’s day.  I just know you can’t wait to see how to install the drive shaft Smile

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Work is keeping me away from my sewing machines

I must apologize for not posting and not making more progress on Ms. Rusty.  My job has me traveling on the road and thus away from my work bench.  This past week had me in Puerto Rico and in a hotel room with an excellent view of the ocean (sometimes work really isn’t so bad). SO, since I can’t share any sewing machine adventures I thought I’d share a photo from my travel adventures.


Hope to be back soon sharing something more sewing machine related Smile

Sunday, April 1, 2012


This past week I removed all the plugs and tape from Ms. Rusty and was surprised how well they worked.  Not only did they (the plugs and tape) do a good job of preventing powder coating from going where it shouldn’t, but they were also very easy to remove.  Here is a photo of the interior of the needle area after all the plugs/tape/etc. have been removed:
All plugs and tape removed
However, there were a few areas that needed some touching up.  One area was the serial number plate.  I had forgotten to cover it with tape so it was completely covered with powder coating and clearcoat.  I tried using an razor knife to scrape it clean, but I ended up putting a gouge in Ms. Rusty’s new skin and I nearly cried.

Friday, March 23, 2012

Meet Ms. Rusty’s new sisters


I recently acquired a few “new” machines.  My father-in-law went to a swap meet to look at old automobiles, but ended up buying a few sewing machine treasures for me rather than car parts for himself.  My mother-in-law calls him a “pusher” for my addiction (lol).  I like what he is pushing so I’m not about to complain!!

New Wilson manufactured by the A.G. Mason Manufacturing Company in Cleveland, Ohio.  It’s a shuttle machine and came in a bentwood case. My FIL has the case right now to repair the latch so here are pictures of the machine without the case. I don’t know if it originally had a motor, but I strongly suspect the motor on it now is a replacement or aftermarket model.

New Wilson - FrontNew Wilson - BackNew Wilson - Bed Decal

The A.G. Mason company was only in existence from 1903 to 1916, so this machine is about 100 years old.  Other than learning that the A.G. Mason company was acquired by the Domestic Sewing Machine Company in 1916, I don’t know anything else about the New Wilson sewing machines, so if any of you out there know more, I love to hear about it!

Singer Treadle

The serial number on this machine is AA-738142 so information available on the ISMACS website indicates that this baby is a Model 66 made in late 1925.  The decals on this machine are in really good shape and the cabinet is also in good condition.  It has some surface rust on the chrome parts, but unlike Ms. Rusty, this machine can actually make a decent stitch in it’s present condition.  It shouldn’t take much to get her looking good and running great!

Singer Treadle - Base and HeadSinger Treadle - Head TopSinger Treadle - Head BackSinger Treadle - Head Front 2

Singer 306k

This one I can’t blame on my FIL.  I bought this one myself at a yard sale.  It is a 306k and probably the newest model Singer in my collection.  I can’t find a thing wrong with the machine at this point and it just needs a bit of cleaning to be in great condition.  The cabinet is also in pretty decent shape, but could use some refinishing to get rid of some wear marks and scratches.

back of 306Frontdialstop lhs of cabinet

As you can see, I will have plenty of projects to work on when Ms. Rusty is finished.  The two biggest questions on my mind at this point are: 1) will I EVER finish Ms. Rusty? and 2) which project should I start on next?

Friday, March 16, 2012


Today is the day I describe how I applied decals to Ms. Rusty.  The decals I’m using are waterslide decals that I found for a Singer 301 (3/4 size bed) so they aren't quite long enough nor have enough corner decals for the bed of a 201. However, they have the same design and Ms. Rusty originally had and one sheet of decals is enough for two 3/4 size machines so I'll have enough extra decals to make them fit my machine.
One sheet of decals:  Decal Sheet
The first step in the decal process is to cut out and trim all the decals.

Friday, March 9, 2012

Bubble Repair

As I mentioned in the previous post, the powder coating process was mostly successful.  The problem was that bubbles appeared on the bed surface. 

Bubbles on bed    Bubbles close-up

I discussed possible causes of the bubbles with my husband, who has much more experience in powder coating than I do.  He said it could be due to any number of reasons, including either porous metal or contaminants trapped in the metal.  The air or contaminants (such as oil) trapped in the metal would start to expand as the metal is heated in the oven at temperatures up to the 400°F that is required to liquefy and cure the powder coating.  The bubbles then form as the contaminants escape through the powder coating.  However, he points out that this is all speculation on his part and the true cause remains unknown.  All I know is that Ms. Rusty looks like she has a bad case of acne and I need to fix it!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Blasting and Coating

Now that Ms. Rusty is all plugged up and protected, I sent her into the blast cabinet.  Here are pictures of her viewed from the door of the blast cabinet and through the window.
In the blaster2In the Blaster
At first I was a bit scared to start taking off her paint, wondering how hard it was going to be and having second thoughts about this whole crazy plan of powder coating her.  But I reminded myself that she REALLY needed a new coat of paint at the very minimum, and bead blasting her was going to be easier, and more thorough, than trying to use paint stripper.

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Plugging Holes

The last step before removing all of Ms. Rusty’s paint by bead blasting is to protect threaded and machined areas.  I’m choosing to use heat resistant tape and silicone plugs so they can stay in place during the powder coating step, which requires Ms. Rusty to bake in an oven at high temps to cure.

The flat areas are best covered by the heat resistant tape, as shown in the photo below.

Using Tape

One particular area that was tough to cover was the exposed surface in the bobbin area.

Exposed hole

To cover this I cut a piece of tape larger than the area to be covered and placed in over the hole.

TapeBefore cutting

Then using an Exacto knife, the excess tape is cut away

 excess cutfinished covered hole

All other flat/rounded areas were covered in this way  finished area with tape

Plugging holes was relatively easy using the variety of plugs I recently purchased (see previous post).  I used the caps to fill in longer holes like the one shown here: 

Tube used

However, some longer holes were an odd size and instead required the use of two plugs.  This next photo shows how one plug was the right size in diameter, but wasn’t long enough to completely fill the hole.

One plugOne not enough

So I took two identical plugs and cut them in half so I had two shorter plugs of the same diameter.

Cutting plugcut plug

The two shorter plugs covered both ends and protected the interior from bead blasting & coating.  two plugs

For added protection, I covered/plugged several of the interior holes. I’m not sure these will be actually exposed to sand blasting or powder, but I figure it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Photo inside of arm: Inside Arm

For those of you interested, here are 12 photos of Ms. Rusty from multiple angles so you can see what holes were plugged and/or covered.

needle area pluggedfront pluggedmotor end pluggedBack pluggedtop pluggedback of arm pluggedinside needle area pluggedbobbin area topbobbin end pluggedbobbin area pluggedplugged bottom 2plugged bottom

Top on my agenda for tomorrow – blast and coat Ms. Rusty!!