Welcome to Part 2 of the Connecting Rod Saga. Fortunately, installation of the second connecting rod was much easier than the first one. The photo below shows the connecting rod with the end cap connected and the screws attached.
The end cap must be removed to put it onto the horizontal arm shaft. At the top of the cap is an oil wick, which in Ms. Rusty’s case was all dried up and looked like a piece of lint stuck in the top hole. I applied quite a bit of sewing machine oil to the wick to moisten it and “fluff” it up. The photo below shows the cap as viewed from above so you can see the oil wick.
The other end of the connecting rod has a taper hole. It is important to note which end the taper faces before inserting it into the machine. The wide end of the taper hole should be facing the balance wheel end of the machine. In the photos below, the wide end is facing up in the left photo, while in the right photo, the wide end is on the left side of the rod.
After putting the rod up into the machine, the cap needs to be placed on top of the rod. It is important that the cap be placed on in the same position as it was prior to removal. One way to tell if you have it on correctly is that there is a score-mark on one side of the rod and cap (see left photo below). Another way you can tell you have it on incorrectly is that the rod will bind on the arm shaft as it rotates. The cap screws can be tightened through the top of the machine as shown in the photo on the right below. It is easier than it sounds, and definitely easier than attaching the fork rod from last time!
The last step is to rotate the horizontal arm shaft by hand to check if everything turns smoothly and nothing binds. Also check to make sure there isn’t excess play in the capped connecting rod. The photo below shows both rods installed as viewed from the rear of the machine. The forked rod is on the left and the capped rod on the right.
Next time – reassembly of the Feed Lifting Rock Shaft (FLRS). What fun!