Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Horizontal Arm Shaft (HAS) Removal–Part 2

Last time we covered loosening and/or removal nearly all the parts necessary to remove the Horizontal Arm Shaft (or HAS for short).  Today, we’ll actually take that bugger out!

The last thing that needs to be removed is the screw in the stop motion flanged bushing (the metal part that pokes out that holds the motor and balance wheel).

stop motion flanged bushing

Now it is necessary to use a rod of some sort to tap out the HAS.  The Adjusters Manual recommends a “brass rod of the proper diameter”.  I used a 7/16” wooden dowel.  The key is, you don’t want to use something really hard that can damage the HAS – you want the bar your tapping with to be softer than the steel of the HAS. 

Place the rod or dowel against the shaft end by the clamp stop motion bushing and HAS bearing.  In this next photo I am pointing to the HAS and the spot where I placed the dowel.


I used a hammer to gently tap the dowel which helped push the HAS slowly out through the front of the machine.  As the end moved past the HAS bearing, the bearing was easily removed from the machine.

HAS Bearing removed  HAS bearing

As I continued to tap out the HAS, I kept an eye on my progress through the side arm hole (where the stitch indicator plate goes).  As the end of the shaft approached the feed cam & feed lifting eccentric, I held on to it with my bent nose pliers and then slowly pulled the HAS out from the front of the machine.  This prevented the feed cam & feed lifting eccentric to fall down and potentially get damaged.

Holding on to part through arm hole: holding cam during removal

Feed cam & feed lifting eccentric removed:  eccentric feed cam

As the HAS continued to come out, I repeated the same procedure as above for the bevel gear

HAS bevel gear:  HAS gear

HAS fully removed, with needle bar crank still attached.  I wasn’t able to remove the needle bar crank until after soaking the HAS in kerosene. 

HAS removed

Views of Ms. Rusty without her HAS –

Right Hand Side:HAS removed - view from RHSand Left Hand Side: HAS removed - view from LHS

Next I cleaned up all the parts that were removed in the HAS removal process using kerosene.  The parts that had exposed rust (like the thread take-up lever) were also treated with Evapo-rust.

HAS and all parts

Here is a close-up of the thread take-up lever assembly and needle bar link after cleaning:cleaned needle bar connectors

HAS after cleaning:HAS and parts all cleaned

Before putting the parts into storage, I put as many set screws back into place as possible so I wouldn’t forget where everything goes.

Next time – badges?  We don’t need no stinking badges!


  1. Yes Badges! LOL, I laughed. We say that all the time! I love your blog and glad I found it. I am so going to restore one of these 201's that I have...nothing to lose!


  2. I want to BE you when I grow up (I'm 62, so there is not much hope, I'm afraid). I want your workshop and skills, too! LOL, love this, keep going please!

  3. Cathy - good luck on restoring your 201. Just be careful - it can be addicting!

    DragonPoodle - be careful what you wish for! (LOL) I'm not sure you realize how much of this I'm clueless about :)

  4. Hi there, I have a semi industrial Grand, there is no screw on the has bearing though, just a piece of metal with no thread, do you have any ideas on how to get the bearing out?

  5. how do i remove the counter weight on a bicor vx 1005 sewing machine?