One sheet of decals:
The first step in the decal process is to cut out and trim all the decals.
This is about the strip down and restoration of a 1940 Singer 201-2 sewing machine, and probably some other random thoughts along the way.
Now I can’t strip and paint Ms. Rusty with her badge still on, so it will have to come off. Also, the poor badge is not in great shape so it will need some TLC also.
See all that lovely corrosion?
The badge is attached to the arm by two pins
Before you can take off the badge, the pins need to be removed. One way is to drill them out, but a less invasive way is to straighten the pins and pull them out. I’m wasn’t sure the second option was viable due to the corrosion, but I gave it a try anyway.
Today I did a test run of applying decals and experimenting with clear overcoat on the powder coating.
In a typical restoration, like a featherweight, it is my understanding that you first apply the decals to the painted surface and then apply a clear coat finish over the top of the decals. The clear coat adds a protective layer over the decals so you don’t have to worry about fabric, zippers, etc. rubbing them off when you are sewing.
However, my restoration is not very typical (as you have probably figured out by now). I’m planning on powder coating Ms. Rusty and applying decals to the powder coated surface. The problem is that you cannot apply standard clear coat paint on top of a powder coated surface. It is just too slick for the clear coat to adhere. In fact, I’m not entirely sure the decals themselves will even adhere to the surface – which is why I am doing a test run using scrap decals and scrap powder coated metal.
In a previous post I powder coated a scrap hinge to practice my powder coating skills. I’m using that piece and a single straight line of gold decal for my test. The first step is to place the decal in some water to help loosen the decal from the background paper (see photo below).