Showing posts with label Decals. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Decals. Show all posts

Friday, March 16, 2012

Decals!!

Today is the day I describe how I applied decals to Ms. Rusty.  The decals I’m using are waterslide decals that I found for a Singer 301 (3/4 size bed) so they aren't quite long enough nor have enough corner decals for the bed of a 201. However, they have the same design and Ms. Rusty originally had and one sheet of decals is enough for two 3/4 size machines so I'll have enough extra decals to make them fit my machine.
One sheet of decals:  Decal Sheet
The first step in the decal process is to cut out and trim all the decals.

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Badge Removal

Now I can’t strip and paint Ms. Rusty with her badge still on, so it will have to come off.  Also, the poor badge is not in great shape so it will need some TLC also. 

See all that lovely corrosion?  B4

The badge is attached to the arm by two pins  B1 - labeled

Before you can take off the badge, the pins need to be removed.  One way is to drill them out, but a less invasive way is to straighten the pins and pull them out.  I’m wasn’t sure the second option was viable due to the corrosion, but I gave it a try anyway.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Testing out decals

Today I did a test run of applying decals and experimenting with clear overcoat on the powder coating. 

In a typical restoration, like a featherweight, it is my understanding that you first apply the decals to the painted surface and then apply a clear coat finish over the top of the decals.  The clear coat adds a protective layer over the decals so you don’t have to worry about fabric, zippers, etc. rubbing them off when you are sewing.

However, my restoration is not very typical (as you have probably figured out by now).  I’m planning on powder coating Ms. Rusty and applying decals to the powder coated surface.  The problem is that you cannot apply standard clear coat paint on top of a powder coated surface.  It is just too slick for the clear coat to adhere.  In fact, I’m not entirely sure the decals themselves will even adhere to the surface – which is why I am doing a test run using scrap decals and scrap powder coated metal.

In a previous post I powder coated a scrap hinge to practice my powder coating skills.  I’m using that piece and a single straight line of gold decal for my test.  The first step is to place the decal in some water to help loosen the decal from the background paper (see photo below).

Scrap metal & decal